New York/Kolkata: Nita Ambani made a striking cultural statement at the TIME100 Summit in New York, draping a handwoven Jamdani saree that took over two years to complete.
The saree, sourced from Swadesh, was crafted in Phulia, West Bengal, by Padma Shri awardee Biren Kumar Basak. According to the brand, the intricate weave required nearly 24 months of meticulous handwork, reflecting the legacy and precision of Bengal’s centuries-old textile tradition.
A saree rich in storytelling and craftsmanship
The Jamdani saree worn by Ambani featured meenakari-style weaving, combining tribal motifs, figurative storytelling and symbolic elements. The pallu depicted ceremonial scenes, human figures, animals and foliage, all rendered with fine detail.
Its borders were adorned with fish motifs, traditionally associated with prosperity and good fortune. The body of the saree showcased soft pastel stripes interwoven with intricate patterns, creating a balance of colour and design.
Jamdani’s heritage and global recognition
Jamdani weaving, historically linked to the region of Dhaka, is recognised as an intangible cultural treasure. It was inscribed on the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2013.
Dating back to as early as the fourth century BCE, the craft flourished under medieval Indian dynasties and reached its peak during the Mughal era. The delicate muslin base and detailed motifs made it one of the most prized textiles of its time.
A labour-intensive art form
What sets Jamdani apart is its complex weaving technique. Each motif is individually inlaid into the fabric using an extra-weft method, requiring exceptional skill and patience.
Artisans manually insert denser threads into fine warp yarns to create floral and geometric patterns. This painstaking process means a single saree can take months or even years to complete, depending on its intricacy.
Revival and celebrity appeal
After a period of decline during colonial rule, Jamdani weaving saw a revival in the late 20th century. Today, it continues to thrive in parts of West Bengal and Bangladesh, with both traditional and modern adaptations.
The weave has also gained popularity among celebrities. Kangana Ranaut recently wore a Jamdani saree during a roadshow in West Bengal, while Alia Bhatt chose a Dhakai Jamdani for Durga Puja celebrations last year.
Cultural significance in modern fashion
Jamdani’s enduring appeal lies in its blend of history, artistry and elegance. Its motifs often reflect Persian influences introduced during the Delhi Sultanate, while Mughal patronage elevated its status as a luxury textile.
Despite changes in materials and production methods over time, the essence of Jamdani remains rooted in craftsmanship and cultural identity.
Conclusion
Nita Ambani’s choice of a handwoven Jamdani saree at a global मंच highlights the growing appreciation for India’s traditional textiles. As heritage weaves find renewed relevance in contemporary fashion, Jamdani continues to stand as a symbol of timeless artistry and cultural pride.