Ostrich meat is being explored as a surprising alternative to beef, offering the allure of lower environmental damage. Methane emissions from ostriches are a fraction of those from cows, but the climate footprint of their feed—comprising crops like soy and wheat—casts doubts on its overall sustainability. Conflicting research results further blur the picture, with some studies suggesting ostrich meat’s environmental cost is comparable to beef or pork.

When it comes to taste, ostrich offers a lean, steak-like flavor with none of the gaminess found in some meats. It’s tender and richly satisfying, but it doesn’t perfectly mimic beef, according to a holiday experiment conducted by the author. Cooked with butter, garlic, and herbs, it delivered a rosy texture and pleasant crust, although the subtle poultry notes were hard to miss. For a smoky twist, an ostrich wing—described as resembling a turkey leg—provided a bold yet unique addition to the table.

The major hurdle for ostrich becoming mainstream? Its price. At over $25 a pound, it’s closer to a luxury cut than an everyday protein. Experts argue that rather than searching for replacements, reducing meat consumption by even 20% would create a meaningful difference in environmental outcomes.

While ostrich may intrigue adventurous eaters, it’s unlikely to dethrone traditional favorites like beef any time soon. For now, it remains an expensive curiosity rather than a practical solution.